A Scandinavian take on soft power dressing for autumn

“If you want to be sustainable in 2025, you should not work in fashion.” My colleague recently surprised me with this honest sentence, and frankly, I could not agree more. In my view, even the most sustainable solutions tend to trigger the desire to consume, which is ultimately the problem. While discussing the launch of a campaign, she noted that blurting out such a line aloud might not help us convert into sales – and she was likely right. Yet, as a consumer, I would be impressed to hear this level of honesty from any brand.

What must follow that sentence, though, is the acknowledgement that the emotions tied to fashion are precisely why people remain drawn to it. The spectrum of those emotions is overpowering. From the comfort of belonging, to the freedom of self-expression, to the thrill of power. At the beginning of autumn, I found myself wanting to explore 'soft power' outfits that make me feel simply better about myself, and these looks are one way to give myself an advantage.

I seek an emotional conversion when dressing up. I'll admit, I seek the ultimate feeling of 'OK, I am ready for what’s there to come'.

Wearing a grey checked Acne Studios jacket for this Vogue Scandinavia shoot gives me a lift in self-esteem. The accentuated shoulders are shaped to resemble the rounded shoulder of a plush teddy bear. It’s a playful idea executed with strong design, resulting in a jacket that carries power. The teddy bear comparison is not mine – it’s the brilliance of the house, building a collection with purpose and a surprising narrative. A piece like this can shift between silhouettes easily and becomes a solution when situational dressing feels frustrating. I took advantage of the length and paired it with unapologetically sexy over-the-knee boots and big jewellery.

Related: What people are wearing in Scandinavia: Cute couples of Stockholm

Dressing for oneself versus dressing for others? To this day, I’m still not sure I’ve arrived at an answer. The 'enclothed cognition theory' suggests a link between what we wear and how we think and behave. Lingerie feels like an especially contradictory example, while also being one of the most difficult categories of clothing to design. The sheer craftsmanship of these pieces can ignite a sense of strength. I return to my collection of La Perla bodysuits when I want to step out of my usual instinct to hide. Sometimes it’s worth entering a room with a feeling of control, rather than the urge to escape.

When carefully growing my wardrobe, I place extra focus and care towards designer lead brands. I am so deeply moved by novelty and the act of rebellion coming from new brands signalling the signs of the times. I fell in love with a Swedish newcomer Studio Constance. The brand's narrative of feral luxury is fresh and something I haven’t come across within high fashion. Feral women are not bound by conformism, free of societal expectations and – frankly – a bit wild and undeniably cool. I want to be their heroine. I chose strong leather set and paired it with classic Chanel heels.

There are a couple of brands I have admired since childhood, brands that introduced powerful archetypes and, in a way, raised me. I moved from being an aspirational, in-awe devotee, to an occasional entry-level shopper, to a confident, aware customer. Jil Sander has walked that path with me and kept me hooked for decades. The sculptural forms and elemental simplicity – not simple, but intentionally reduced – and the clear vision of space and light interacting have been a continuous inspiration.

The black and white Jil Sander dress, worn for this shoot, always makes an impact. The construction of the collar and the double-breasted fastening blend the feminine and the masculine sides of tailoring. I love that. I paired it with chunky Miu Miu Mary-Janes. The shiny coat I wear against the leopard background – another standout piece from Jil Sander – secures that balance between soft and hard. Side note: good department store sales are full of treasures.

Related: Simone Ashley has a new Finnish favourite in her coat collection

Lastly, I want to shine some light on the Scandi girl’s biggest export. Toteme has experienced exponential growth – a rare trajectory, and in my opinion, one that has been executed very well. They’ve managed to make the aspirational buyer feel special and the experienced shopper feel comforted, resulting in a widespread and loyal following. What inspires me most is that they may be the first Scandinavian fashion house to make the “Scandi-style” silhouette truly global. I rediscovered a full-length, silky fine-knit dress from them and enjoyed that return.

Being a hoarder pays off sometimes. The extreme example is my Alexander McQueen silk skull scarf – currently trending on TikTok just as it did on the streets of London in 2006, when I spent my savings investing in “fashion” and, in a way, my self-esteem.

All worth it.