Gestuz - AW24

By Josefin Forsberg

This season, Gestuz crafted a sexy, party girl collection "made for the female gaze," complete with rock'n'roll leather sets and club-ready tailoring

This season, Gestuz invited showgoers to a party. Dressing up the runway with multiple spinning oversized disco balls, sending cascades of sparkling light across the onlookers who lined the runway. From the very first model – wearing an impeccably cut chocolate leather two-piece – striding across the concrete floor, it was clear that the Gestuz woman came to party this season. "We were very much inspired by the indulgence of luxury otherwise saved for special occasions, embraced in the everyday," shares creative director Sanne Sehested. As such, the collection sees a blurring of the lines between going out and office-core because "why save the fun for rare occasions when life is so short?"

That said, this partywear is reimagined, drawing distinct inspiration from the late '70s and early '80s (brown corduroy, anyone?) in its take on disco-appropriate tailoring. Mini shorts enabled leggy looks, while large-plate silver tops lent traditional pinstripes a wild-child appeal. It was sexy but not sexual, perhaps because it was "made more for the female gaze," according to Sehested. "For the wearer herself."

Luxe materials – a diaspora of textures – ranged from heavy leather coats and suits to light silk and transplanted mesh. Fluffy wool mingles with lace and lingerie elements. "I love to play with the contrast of textures to create looks that are interesting beyond colour and silhouette," notes Sehestedt. Speaking of the colour, it was darker, made for Gestuz's new "femme fatale-ish" universe, with the occasional shock of bright red and airy white. Many of the silhouettes and pieces stem from Sehestedt's own vast collection of vintage finds from the era: fluffy coats worn by Sehestedt herself transform into faux furs, for example.

The jewellery – created in collaboration with Monies – is as eye-catching as the collection, with a defined vintage vibe. "The funny thing about these pieces is that they look really heavy and hard to wear, but they are made of materials – such as wood – that make them really light and quite suitable for everyday life," Sehestedt concludes. "So that was also a nod to the collection where the festive, over-the-top meets everyday life and an unbotheredness." An aloofness we're keen to adopt when this collection drops.

See the full Gestuz AW24 collection below: