Partnering with Frédéric Malle – whose perfume pedigree is renowned – it seems Acne Studios' first ever perfume is the perfect scent for Swedish summer
As guests settled into their seats at the Observatoire de Paris ahead of Acne Studios’ autumn/winter '24 show, a distinct and ethereal scent reminiscent of airy fabric softener wafted through the air. It wasn’t a marketing strategy, but instead, members of the Swedish brand's team had decided to spritz on lab samples of the scent before the show.
Crafted with renowned perfume maker Frédéric Malle, the Acne Studios by Frédéric Malle fragrance went through 100 iterations before the duo managed to narrow it down. According to Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios’ creative director, the winning scent was slightly “smarter” than its contenders. “It reminded me of fresh laundry on the line at the summer house — evoking a little bit of romance with a dash of nostalgia.”
Imbuing the scent with a distinct Swedish heritage was important. “He is very good with words, while I work with imagery,” says Johansson. In this spirit, the creative director dove into the visuals. “I sent him everything from movies to objects,” he says, including Ingmar Bergman’s Persona and local pieces of wood. “He [Frédéric Malle] said he has never worked with anyone in this way.”
Jonny Johansson and Frédéric Malle. Photo: Acne Studios Par Frédéric Malle
Carried by crystalline aldehydes, Acne Studios’ first fragrance develops into soft floral notes as you wear it – classical hints of roses and violets are underscored by orange blossom. Incense adds mineral freshness, while notes of vanilla, creamy sandalwood, and peach skin juxtapose the green freshness — a softness that “caresses the skin like a comforting mohair sweater,” according to the brand.
Frederic described the type of scents I enjoy in straightforward terms: there are perfumes that linger on the surface, and then there are perfumes that burrow into the skin. I prefer the latter. I also don’t like when a scent becomes too recognisable.
Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios’ creative director
Johansson has been exploring ideas for perfumes over the past 15 years, but Acne Studios’ first fragrance originated with a letter. “I received a handwritten note from Frédéric Malle where he introduced himself and expressed his interest in meeting,” says Johansson. Johansson describes himself as a long-time fan of Malle’s perfumes, having “always” worn ‘Dans Tes Bras’ — a sensuous scent reminiscent of warm, salty skin crafted from cashmeran, sandalwood, musk, and patchouli, enhanced with incense, and brightened by violets. As such, there’s no better mentor in perfumery than Frédéric Malle according to Johansson. “For me, this collaboration has been about entering his world,” he says. “I feel like I’ve made a new friend. He is such an elegant man. The first thing he did was send me to his tailor on Savile Row.”
Photo: Acne Studios Par Frédéric Malle
Photo: Acne Studios Par Frédéric Malle
Photo: Acne Studios Par Frédéric Malle
A fan of “simple scents” that make an impact, Johansson’s preference is evident in the brand’s debut perfume. “Frederic described the type of scents I enjoy in straightforward terms: there are perfumes that linger on the surface, and then there are perfumes that burrow into the skin. I prefer the latter. I also don’t like when a scent becomes too recognisable,” says Johansson.
Inspired by Johansson’s favourite ‘Dans Tes Bras’, the new perfume is envisioned as a “collision” of sorts. “Imagine a classic perfume – like Chanel No. 5 or an old Hermès scent, something like that – but designed for children,” he says. Light and airy, it's inspired by pastel sunsets and Acne Studios’ pearlescent universe where tactility is everything.
According to Johansson, perfume is “like anything in fashion: It’s about enhancing your self-expression,” he explains. This brings us to the inevitable question: Will Acne Studios’ first perfume replace ‘Dans Tes Bras’ for the creative director? “I love it, but no. I am too old for that,” he says.