For its first runway collection, Copenhagen's new 'It' brand Forza Collective ventures to redefine Scandinavian minimalism
Today marked Forza Collective’s very first runway show, though you wouldn’t know it. Here we find a fully formed universe, meticulously considered from the 30 LED lights that pulse in time to the '90s Detroit house soundtrack to the androgynous casting to the Georg Jensen jewellery collab. But most notably, there are the clothes, which propose a new take on Scandinavian minimalism. “The idea of Scandinavian minimalism has been kind of stagnated in the last few years. We all know what that DNA and that looks is,” says Forza founder and creative director Kristoffer Kongshaug. “Forza is redefining what minimalism is and adding layers to the vision of that.”
We were first introduced to the Copenhagen-based brand last season by way of a subdued presentation. Rendered entirely in nylon, the collection – which Kongshaug describes are more of a capsule – laid the groundwork for what came down today’s runway. The cleverly placed cut-outs, the sporty elements, feminine flourishes by way of cupped busts. This outing, however, finds an expansion in material. Take, for instance, the office-to-dinner drop-waist dresses rendered in knit or a show-stopping mesh evening gown in shocking red. “Nylon will still be part of the collection, but I’m opening up the line so it’s more buyer-friendly,” says Kongshaug with refreshing honesty. “It’s staying true to the DNA, but it’s a dialogue with the buyers.”
To that end, Forza should have little problem finding its customer. Though the collection favours, as Kongshaug puts it, a woman who is “very much aware of fashion”, its offering is adaptable, favouring cut and quality over statement-making (though a couple of those gowns certainly do make a statement). “It’s a woman who aims to wear The Row but will also wear a red gown or cocktail dress for a night out, which The Row doesn’t offer,” he says. It’s a certain '90s minimalism made modern.
As for what the future holds, Kongshaug isn’t shy to lay out his grand plans – a standalone store, being stocked at the most covetable retailers. To be the new 'It' brand coming out of Copenhagen. Judging by today, he’s off to a strong start.
See the full Forza Collective AW24 collection below: