(di)vision’s signature upcycled split bombers – a little bit punk, a little bit militant – are entirely of our time. Derived from the pattern of a Military MA-2 Pilot jacket, the piece has been worn by supermodels, industry insiders and even Kourtney Kardashian. It also, unfortunately, feels more relevant today than it did when the brand launched in 2018.
For SS23, (di)vision founders Simon and Nanna Wick emphasise the reworked military aesthetic that weaves through each of their collections. Unsettlingly, the sibling duo drew inspiration from Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 psychological war epic Apocalypse Now, the themes of which they find equal parts fascinating, terrifying and devastating. “This could be how we as humans use structure and status quo to overcome the most terrific situations, like war and death,” says Simon, by way of example. “It’s something we feel is very relevant in today’s world, which is on the eve of destruction.”
In stark contrast to the dark subject matter was the good vibe setting. Set in a forest, populated with mushroom chairs and mushroom lights, it evoked the best kind of Scandinavian forest rave. Fittingly, mate and vodka was served on arrival.
When it comes to (di)vision, nothing is straightforward. Things are snipped and cut, edited and put back together (much like a film, come to think of it). While the collection is still unisex, feminine elements are emphasised more than ever before. Lace front silk trousers, paisley patchwork dresses and bell sleeved frocks brought a gentle girliness — flower power energy, even.
Underscoring the offering is the brand’s unwavering dedication to sustainability. They’ve partnered with the design house Gubi, repurposing their discarded interior fabric. A new Portuguese partner, Pizarro, have solved an ongoing issue with upcycled denim, providing a steady supply to create their beloved split and patchwork jeans.”The product looks and feels amazing and is basically the essence of (di)vision,” notes Simon. A glimmer of defiant optimism, echoed by the finale, in which models traipsed down the runway holding hands, linking arms and smiling.