Heritage intersects art as budding designer Margaret Abeshu partners with Norwegian jewellery giant David Andersen on a statement making jewellery collaboration, unveiled during Oslo Runway
Handmade in the heart of Oslo, David-Andersen has been a Norwegian jewellery giant since its venerable namesake launched the brand in 1876. Now, the brand paves the way for local future design talents as it collaborates with emerging talent Margaret Abeshu. "After nearly 150 years as a leading goldsmith in Norway, David-Andersen has collaborated with several artists and designers over the years," says Ida Lund-Hermanrud, head of marketing at David-Andersen. "Investing in the designers of tomorrow is important to ensure that the brand keeps reinventing itself, as well as carrying on the long tradition of handcraft."
Unveiled at Oslo Runway, the collaboration saw heritage merge with avant-garde aesthetics, resulting in three extraordinary jewellery pieces blending traditional motifs with modern sensibilities. The pieces, featuring dainty embroidery, chains, oversized hoops, and baroque pearls, were spotted during the Oslo Runway Next fashion show, accenting Abeshu's Dune-inspired hooded corsets and hand died ensembles.
At the core of the collection is David-Andersen's iconic 100-year-old enamelled butterfly, a symbol that resonates with Abeshu both for its global meanings of freedom and transformation and its personal significance in her creative and personal growth. When developing the pieces, Abeshu delved deeply into David-Andersen's archive, embracing the brand's expertise in traditional enamel techniques.
Revisiting the classic motif, Abeshu wanted to contrast “its fragility and beauty with imperfect baroque pearls and chains.” “We have gone through an exciting process where Margaret contributed sketches, ideas and visions for the expression we wanted to achieve,” explains Lund-Hermanrud. The designer developed the jewellery alongside her textiles, describing how the archival butterfly morphed with the creation of the collection. “For me, the jewellery designs represent where I am today as a creator,” Abeshu explains. “I am naively hopeful, very ambitious, and maturing in my crafts, and that is what my collection initially represents for me.”
For me, the jewellery designs represent where I am today as a creator. I am naively hopeful, very ambitious, and maturing in my crafts, and that is what my collection initially represents for me.Margaret Abeshu
Though the intricate pieces are not for sale, they offer a transformative vision of what can happen when the old world and the new collide—each piece manifests heritage and innovation in harmony. “This collaboration brings something new and unexpected to our design history while preserving the quality and exclusivity of the craft,” says Lund-Hermanrud. “It’s a fun link between the jewellery industry and the Norwegian fashion industry, which opens the door for innovation, inspiration and wider appeal among fashion and jewellery enthusiasts.”
The collaboration is more than just an exploration of design; it’s a symbiotic relationship pushing the boundaries of both fashion and jewellery, setting the stage for a new dawn of young designers – with heritage brands like David-Andersen keen to support their talents.