Ukrainian designers presentation – SS25

For spring/summer ‘25, top Ukrainian fashion designers returned to the Danish capital as Ukrainian Fashion Week took over the city’s Ukraine House, part of the ‘Support Ukrainian Fashion’ initiative endorsed by Copenhagen Fashion Week. Each of the five designers – J’amemme, Katerina Kvit, Omelia, Plngns, and Sidletskiy – showcased their SS25 collections through a captivating two-hour presentation. The installation, themed ‘Askania-Nova,’ highlighted one of the oldest biosphere reserves on Earth and the largest protected steppe area in Europe, currently enduring the consequences of the Russian occupation.

It was an impactful affair, spotlighting the extraordinary talent of the designers while offering a poignant experience. “Our resilience is a testament to the strength of the fashion industry, the power of solidarity, and the unbreakable spirit of Ukrainian designers,” says Iryna Danylevska, founder and CEO of UWF. “We strive to preserve culture, traditions, and creativity in the darkest times. Our responsibility is to speak through fashion about the daily challenges: the thousands of industry workers who continue to work under extremely difficult conditions – despite rocket attacks and power outages. To explain to colleagues around the world the challenges Ukrainians overcome daily and what is happening in Ukraine now.”

Discover all the looks from the UFW presentation below:

The elemental forces of earth, water, air, fire, and aether served as the foundation for Katerina Kvit’s SS25 collection. Captivated by nature’s diversity and the intricate makeup of all matter, Kvit drew inspiration from the natural world’s complexity. She was also profoundly moved by the work of Japanese artists like Yasuaki Onishi, whose exploration of ethereal themes such as time, air, gravity, and space finds a form in her latest designs.

Fringes cascading like waterfalls, light-as-air knits (a first for the designer), textured leather – also integrated into denim pieces – and dapper tailoring define the line-up. A harmonious palette of soft, milky shades and regal gold accents nods to the collection’s celestial inspiration, while the brand’s dedication to protecting our planet is evident in the use of recycled and eco-friendly materials.

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This season marks the second time Plngns has presented a complete line-up, with its SS25 collection focusing on the brand’s forte: streetwear, crafted with sustainability at its core. “Our main concern is always to develop new, creative approaches that do justice to the life of the garments and the materials used,” says founder Mitya Hontarenko. “The magic lies in creating something completely new from something old.”

In the SS25 offering, dubbed ‘Sneaker Riot,’ this magic manifests through intricate craftsmanship similar to collage work. Hontarenko meticulously disassembles original products by hand, breaking them into numerous components to craft new clothing and sneakers. The result? Singular, edgy pieces like the cropped vests and sculpted leather jackets which draw inspiration from “current world conflicts.” There’s no conflict, however, about the fact that this collection is sure to be snapped up by all the cool kids come spring.

For designer Kostyantyn Omelia, florals for spring can certainly be groundbreaking. The founder’s namesake brand’s SS25 line-up, titled ‘Frost Flowers,’ delves into floral motifs with inspiration drawn from the works of Ukrainian poet Lesya Ukrainka. The collection’s name reflects the designer’s emotional journey, creating beauty amid the harsh realities of war in Ukraine.

Featuring a spectrum of icy whites, the monochromatic collection boasts airy pieces crafted from vintage or surplus materials, emphasising natural fabrics like cotton and linen. The florals come to life through delicate lacework and Richelieu embroidery, while hand-stitched beads and crystals add a touch of sparkle to the elegant garments.

While on vacation, J’amemme founder Julie Yarmoiuk was stung by a jellyfish – metaphorically, that is. Inspiration for her brand’s SS25 collection struck as she was mesmerised by the creature’s beauty and how its forms defy nature’s ordinary boundaries. “Observing their graceful, flowing movements and the delicate interplay of light and colour was truly enchanting,” the designer shares. “This collection explores the theme of transformation and change, mirroring the jellyfish’s ability to adapt and morph in their underwater environment.”

Indeed, movement is central to J’amemme’s SS25 offering, featuring fluid silhouettes that dynamically flow and billow with the wearer. A sense of weightlessness, akin to a jellyfish drifting in the sea, permeates the collection, enhanced by soft-shaded, translucent, and gossamer fabric choices. Highlighting the brand’s commitment to sustainability, most of the materials used are crafted from recycled plastics, reinforcing J’amemme’s dedication to ocean conservation.

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Designer Igor Sidletsky masterfully blends the old with the new in Sidletskiy’s SS25 collection. “I wanted to create models that combine modern trends with our rich cultural heritage,” he explains. “This has always been part of our brand’s DNA, so it’s crucial for us to continue emphasising authenticity in everything we do.”

Drawing inspiration from historic crafts, traditional handmade techniques, and natural materials, the earthy-toned SS25 collection harmoniously contrasts structured architectural forms with breezy, semi-transparent fabrics. Sculptural double-collared trench coats meet feathery dresses, while oversized blazers and relaxed shirting introduce a contemporary twist. Hand-knitting and traditional weaving, showcased in the jackets and skirts, exemplify exquisite craftsmanship reimagined for today. Meanwhile, the crowning jewels of this collection are the hand-blown glass jewellery adorning the pieces.