Launched in just January of this year, Atelier Hinode is poised to become a new minimalist fixture on the Nordic fashion scene
"I have worked in the fashion industry for quite some time, but I have never worked on a runway experience of this scale and importance," founder Benedikte Ringberg tells Vogue Scandinavia ahead of her brand Atelier Hinode's first runway show. "I worked for several weeks for our launch in January, but this one will for sure be 10 levels above and beyond." Since launching earlier this year, Ringberg has found focus in :telling a story, and growing a feeling in the audience," with the presentation of her collection.
As such, models walked the runway to the building sounds of 19th century opera Lakmé of Léo Delibes. The first act of this piece particularly inspired Ringberg, in which the protagonist Lakmé and her servant Mallika walk to the river to gather flowers and sing the ‘Flower Duet’ together. "I often see that fashion shows uses forceful audios and make the models walk super aggressive or really fast, creating a resounding gasp in the audience," says Ringberg of her operatic soundtrack choice. "I cannot turn away from the feeling that the designs are left behind in these cases. You dont get the time to rest your eyes at the art you are there to see. I want to create the 'wow' effect, but with a calm and pleasant feeling," she muses. "You know the one you have after visiting your favourite museum."
Already well known for its flower brooch, the sculptural, bubbling pieces very much adhered to this artful ethos. They also slotted perfectly into the wood-clad venue situated next to The Norwegian Theatre. For spring/summer '24, Ringberg was inspired by "the great volume and femininity of blooming flowers" and "beautiful petals overlapping and creating a gorgeous and grand visual". The designer wanted to not so much replicate a flower, "but rather applying its form to the tailoring process of each garment," she explains. "The volume of beautiful tulips stand strong in this collection." The resulting collection showcased tucked bubble hemlines, tie details and ruching, and a trinity of simple necklines; bandeau, high neck and collared. All rendered in natural fibres and surplus materials such as heavy organic cottons and light summery muslin.
Multi-functionality guides the design, with each piece offering adaptable versatility. "You can simply buy one dress and create six different versions of it with all the altering features," Ringberg exclaims, and wear it "over and over again," styled for different occasions. As Ringdberg puts it: "We should all be outfit repeaters."
Discover the full Atelier Hinode SS24 collection below: