Amelie Roege Hove's signature skin-baring knitwear is pushed in new, unexpected directions, while the brand's upcoming collaboration with Georg Jensen is teased
Amelie Roege Hove was hoping for rain today – a strange thing given her namesake brand’s spring/summer '24 show was being held outside – and boy did she get it. It was a first for A. Roege Hove, which has previously shown in confined, controllable spaces. “We’re working with it and not trying to stage too much – just being in it,” says Roege Hove. “The city looks like it does.”
It’s a new sentiment for a designer who revels in the particulars – namely, every stitch of her signature knitwear. As with previous collections, this offering is an extension of her growing design lexicon, specifically, a more exaggerated space between “the really simple and the really elevated”. There’s also a lot of skin.
On the so-called simple side is a revamp of Roege Hove’s beloved body-con knit dresses, which are fashioned to provide a bit more structure than their predecessors. “It’s this feeling of pushing the material to be more tailored and more easy-going,” Roege Hove says. Also on deck, playful bicycle shorts and bra tops, striped skirts that sit low on the hips. Metallic yarns are introduced this year – had there been sunshine they may have caught the light.
On the decidedly non-simple side of the spectrum are Roege Hove’s showpieces. A teaser of the brand’s forthcoming collaboration with heritage Danish jewellery house Georg Jensen, the pieces feature tiny silver beads and necklines that bloom up around the face. “Here you have two materials that are working with and against each other,” says Roege Hove, when I ask if the dresses were as complicated to construct as they appear. “We are working towards those special moments in a show – that’s what makes it really fun.”
Show pieces aside, seeing the pieces out and about on the streets of Copenhagen felt fitting, given that Roege Hove’s knits have, in just a few seasons, become a bona fide street style favourite. “I want people in the world to wear it,” says Roege Hove. “Placing it in this setting, people can imagine that it’s actually not that crazy.”
Discover the full A. Roege Hove SS24 collection below: