A fashion insider’s guide to Copenhagen

Copenhagen is a city that continues to be a destination for discovery. While small in size – with a population of 670,000 people, where three hours on a bike can give you the impression you have seen all corners of the capital – there will forever be a street, park, or gallery you’ve never seen before. I’ve lived in Copenhagen for seven years, but still feel like the tourist who arrived in September 2019. Incurably curious, I find myself continuously excited by the prospect of seeing and experiencing something unexpected, and by living a life centred around community, culture and creativity.

Having worked at Copenhagen Fashion Week for six years, bringing it to new heights and building its global ambitions as COO, in April this year I started Conch Books as a passion project to uplift the everyday reader, and to create a catalyst for connection through books and printed matter. Since launching only a few months ago, I’ve seen the city through new eyes; it truly is a gift that keeps on giving.

Related: In northern Copenhagen, beaches, deer parks, and fine dining await

Inspired by these feelings of new perspectives, I wanted to invite a series of friends to welcome us into their worlds they have found within the city. There are many universes within Copenhagen, and I want to see the places they like to call home. Join me in rediscovering the city through these new perspectives, and remember to remain curious.

Jeweller, Olga Bonne

Most reliable dining spot

My boyfriend, who is a brilliant chef, is opening his first restaurant, Tango, on Herluf Trolles Gade this year, and I already know it's going to become one of my favourite spots in Copenhagen. Until then, you'll usually find me at Locale 21, Posh Jah or Maison. They all serve incredible food, but what keeps me coming back is the atmosphere. The vibe is always just right, and there's nothing better than spending a long summer evening sitting outside with friends, sharing a few bottles of wine.

Related: C'est Bonne: The mythology behind Olga Bonne's eclectic jewellery

Top activity in Copenhagen

Exploring a flea market on a summer weekend is one of my favourite things to do in Copenhagen. I especially love the markets at Gammel Strand and Israels Plads. You'll find passionate vintage dealers with a genuine appreciation for craftsmanship and history, and they're never shy about sharing the stories behind their treasures. It's the perfect place to discover unique pieces with character while chatting with a local Copenhagener.

Favourite place after dark

During the summer, we usually host or attend a lot of private dinners and parties, so I don't go clubbing as often as I probably should. Instead, I love ending the evening with a glass of wine at a neighbourhood spot called Blå Vinbar. The bartender, who also happens to be a friend, always knows exactly what I'll enjoy. It's one of those places where you inevitably run into familiar faces, conversations stretch into the night, and before you know it, you've stayed much longer than planned.

Best place to swim

I prefer swimming at Charlottenlund Søbad, just a 30-minute ride from the centre of Copenhagen. I've been coming here my whole life, and there's something special about returning to a place that feels so familiar, where the same faces seem to appear year after year. The bathing pavilion is beautiful, painted in its almost iconic turquoise colour – a classic feature of traditional Danish seaside bathing clubs and part of their timeless charm.

If you're tempted to take a dip in Copenhagen's harbour, keep in mind that it's just as much about the atmosphere as the swim itself. One of my favourite spots is by Ofelia Plads, next to the Royal Danish Playhouse. Just remember that you're jumping in at your own risk – and with a little bit of Copenhagen confidence.

Most delicious coffee and BMO (bolle med ost, which translates to a bread bun with butter and cheese)

For coffee, I always find myself at Original Coffee which is situated in my neighbourhood. Grabbing a cup and sitting outside on Store Kongensgade in the sunshine is one of life’s simple pleasures. If I'm in the mood for breakfast, Studio X Kitchen is another favourite. I always order their signature omelette; it’s one of those dishes I keep coming back for.

Favourite store to shop at

If I’m shopping, you'll most likely find me at Sabine Poupinel or La Bagatelle. They both share an exceptional approach to tailoring and craftsmanship, but what I love most is that each has such a distinct point of view. They know exactly what's happening in fashion without ever chasing trends, and every piece feels thoughtful, beautifully made and completely their own.

The best part is that the owners are usually there themselves. They bring so much personality to their stores that every visit feels more like dropping by a beautifully curated home than walking into a boutique. Even if I leave empty-handed, which is not very often, I always walk away inspired.

Where to take a tourist to see a slice of the real Copenhagen

I always take visitors to Copenhagen's harbour. It’s an important part of Copenhagen’s identity and something we're incredibly proud of. In the summer, the locals gather along the harbour’s edge in such huge numbers that, from a canal boat, they almost look like a colony of sunbathing seals. It’s a funny sight in itself, and about as Copenhagen as it gets. From there, I’d continue to Refshaleøen. It’s evolving at an incredible pace, with exciting new restaurants, galleries and creative spaces opening all the time. If you’re lucky, you can still catch a glimpse of its raw, unpolished charm before it transforms completely.

Most reliable dining spot

While there are no less than 34 Michelin Stars in Copenhagen and the surrounding area, my most steadfast restaurant in town isn’t even on the Bib Gourmand list, but maybe that’s a good thing? It is unabashedly a stalwart of its neighbourhood. Mangia. Real Italian, unadorned, unpretentious. I’m talking raw beef with hazelnuts, bagna cauda, and utterly fulfilling handmade pastas of all sizes and shapes: plin, pappardelle, ravioli... It is my special occasion restaurant, my I’ve-got-a-friend-in-town restaurant, and my “hey, why don’t we just eat out tonight on a Wednesday” restaurant. Every city needs a place like this. I’m glad Copenhagen has Mangia.

Top activity in Copenhagen

In the summer, nothing beats a bottle of wine, a beach towel, and prime real estate on one of the many docks lining Copenhagen Harbour (which is consistently ranked one of the cleanest metropolitan waterways in Europe). The summer here is fleeting, which makes summer swims hit that much harder.

Where to go after dark

Ved Siden Af used to be my go-to dance 'til you’re drenched, surrender-to-the-bass EDM club in town. But it shut down a few years ago. The owners have since reopened it as Den Anden Side in Palads, the cotton candy pink multiplex usually showing a Minions matinee on any given weekend. But, as I have 2 kids now, I'm usually headed there FOR the matinee on a Sunday morning.

Best place to swim

La Banchina for sure. It’s run by a Copenhagen icon, Christer Bredgaard, who somehow had the prescience to pick up the lease on an old boathouse way out in the industrial former shipyard/port that is Refshaleøen years before it was on anyone’s map. Well, it’s paying dividends now. Any given day in the summer, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of people basking like bearded dragons on the docks there that conveniently form a perfect semi-secluded grotto. You honestly don't even feel like you’re in Copenhagen, even if you can see the King’s residence across the canal. It’s a perfect afternoon (order the fish sandwich and some asparagus).

Most delicious coffee and BMO

Unfortunately, these won’t be in the same place. Best BMO (and I've tried plenty!) is hands down Sinne Gas Bageri, down the street from the Hospital at Ryesgade 63. It's a hole in the wall across from... a gas station. They have no front of house. Just cardamom buns, loaves, and brunsviger on the counter, and you MobilePay (Denmark’s Venmo) them on the honour system. But if you holler at one of the bakers, they’ll cut a still-warm bun for you, throw in aged Vesterhavsost cheese, and butter that melts into the bun. It is hard to describe how satisfying, flavourful, crispy, light, umami-rich, and fatty it simultaneously is.

For coffee? I am quite partial to the Coffee Collective, who were some of the first to push third-wave coffee culture in town decades ago, and is my best local coffee shop (I live just up the street from their constantly busy location at Torvehallerne, which is a great spot for sitting outside on sunny days and caffeinating).

Favourite store to shop at

Vibskov Boutique has the city’s best collection of clothing I'd have in my own closet: JW Anderson, CDG, Issey Miyake, Margiela... with a fun rotation of younger brands that make each visit to the shop ticklingly fun exploratory research.

Where to take a tourist to see a slice of the real Copenhagen.

09:00 Breakfast at Gasoline Grill Købmagergade
09:30 Park walk through King's Garden, then pop into SMK
11:00 Coffee at Studio X
11:30 Lunch at Schonemann’s
13:00 Bike to Copenhagen Contemporary
15:00 Pastry at Lille Bakery
15:30 Jump into the water, sun, and repeat at La Banchina (with a bottle and oysters)
18:00 Bike back into town, pre-dinner drink at Palae Bar
18:30 Dinner at Bobe
21:00 Bike up to Nansensgade, beers at Stejrnen (if you’re lucky, there’s live contemporary jazz)
23:30 Trek over to Istedgade, smash a flæskestegssandwich from Isted Grill

Founder, Nicklas Skovgaard

Most reliable dining spot

In my opinion, the most reliable dining spot in Copenhagen is Slotskælderen, which opened in 1910. It's only a five-minute walk from my studio, and they serve a wonderful selection of classic Danish smørrebrød, which I absolutely love. The interior is just as special – it truly feels like stepping into a little pocket of time that's been beautifully preserved.

Top activity in Copenhagen

It may sound like a cliché, but it’s true: bike! I ride my cargo bike every day from my apartment in Nørrebro to my studio in the city centre. It’s by far the best way to experience Copenhagen. Just make sure you learn the local cycling etiquette before renting a bike – we Danes have a shared understanding of how to use the bike lanes, and you don’t want to mess with that.

Where to go after dark

After dark, I love going to Floss. It's an iconic, almost institution-like bar that has been around since the 1980s in the heart of Copenhagen. It's small and intimate, and I never get tired of spending my evenings there. And they serve my two favourite drinks: Iced White Russian and Aperol Spritz.

Related: “There are no limitations to what I can dream for the future of this brand”: Nicklas Skovgaard wins Denmark's most prestigious fashion prize

Best place to swim

I rarely go swimming these days, which is funny because I grew up on a small island and spent so much time in the water as a child. But if I do go for a swim in Copenhagen, I usually head to Svanemøllen. There’s both a beach and a sailing club with a bathing pier where you can jump straight into the water.

Most delicious coffee and BMO

Less than two minutes from my apartment is a lovely little bakery called Bageriet B. They serve excellent coffee and a fantastic selection of pastries and bread. My favourite is their sesame bun with butter and cheese.

Favourite store to shop at

A friend of mine recently opened a vintage store called Comeback Couture in Frederiksberg. He has an incredible eye for vintage fashion, especially pieces from the 1980s, which we both love. The shop is beautiful and feels like stepping into a dream world of fashion and identity.

Where to take a tourist to see a slice of the real Copenhagen

Although I grew up outside Copenhagen, I’ve lived here for the past 14 years, and over time I’ve developed a deep appreciation for the city's historic centre. The streets around Magstræde and Vandkunsten – where my studio is located in a building dating back to 1796 – are especially beautiful and offer a glimpse of what Copenhagen looked like when it was still a much smaller city. Walking these streets always sparks my imagination. I find myself wondering what the city looked like, how people dressed, and what everyday life might have felt like centuries ago. The mix of architectural styles is remarkable, and many of the buildings bear memorial plaques honouring the authors, artists, and actors who once lived there. To me, this is where you experience the real Copenhagen – a place where the city’s history is still very much alive and continues to shape what it is today.

Founder, La Bagatelle

Most reliable dining spot

I have had breakfast consisting of a soft-boiled egg, a glass of grapefruit juice and a cup of sencha tea for a decade at Atelier September, which is a pretty great way to start the day. They also do a delicious quick lunch.

Related: 1,000 books, a lava stone fireplace, and a seaview: Take a tour of Danish creative Malene Malling's home

Top activity in Copenhagen

Walking, shopping and eating – we have so many excellent places to eat, from the simple and cheap to the very extravagant. As for shopping, Copenhagen has a number of independent boutiques with an excellent selection, whether it is clothes, records or books you’re looking for.

Where to go after dark

Bobe serves excellent food and sophisticated cocktails. Bar Vitrine is another favourite. It is a tiny place, so you have to squeeze in and sit tight with the locals, but the food and wine is so worth it.

Best place to swim

I swim at home in Taarbæk every morning all year round. So even though I think it is fantastic that Copenhagen is clean enough to swim in, I never do.

Most delicious coffee and BMO

I do coffee and BMO in the countryside. Instead, I have my coffee with the best croissant in Copenhagen at Thiemers. It is an excellent little bookstore right next to my studio that has a good selection of books, Danish as well as international – their coffee is quite decent too.

Favourite store to shop at

My favourite is naturally La Bagatelle, which is my Studio where I spend so much of my time. I buy a lot of vintage, but I always end up dressed in my own pieces head to toe. Everything is tailor-made in Copenhagen in the most amazing fabrics I find all over the world. I do a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces, and everything is limited in one way or another. For the best selection of interiors, visit theapartment.dk; Griegst has a beautiful space and stunning jewellery. Lot 29 has a well-curated selection of international brands, and my best friend Andrea Nielsen of @thejumblebasket does to-die-for jewellery. Every girl in the know in Copenhagen has one of her pieces on their wishlist.

Where to take a tourist to see a slice of the real Copenhagen

Visit the gallery space Den Frie, it is one of my favourite buildings in Copenhagen.

Owner, The Apartment

Most reliable dining spot

Maison – to be honest, I could visit exclusively for the profiteroles, which happen to be my absolute favourite dessert. Beyond that, it is simply one of those wonderfully reliable spots where the atmosphere, the service, and the classic French execution never fail to impress.

Related: You can now spend the night at this newly reopened Copenhagen design hotspot

Top activity in Copenhagen

Sail in the canals or go to the botanical garden. Seeing Copenhagen from the water is always a brilliant idea, because it gives you an entirely different perspective on the city’s architecture and pacing. But if I'm staying on land, the Botanical Garden holds a deeply personal spot in my heart; my husband’s grandfather actually has an orchid collection preserved there, and spending time inside the historic glasshouse is always a breathtaking experience.

Where to go after dark

I am sure Daphne will be the place. There is always an incredibly distinct, magnetic ambience at any establishment Frederik creates, and this venture is bound to be the definitive late-night destination.

Best place to swim

Krøyers Plads. When it comes to a quick dip, this is the ultimate harbour spot – clean, lively, and easily the best swimming location, especially given how incredibly close and convenient it is to The Apartment.

Most delicious coffee and BMO

Aurens Deli. This has easily become my favourite neighbourhood ritual. Whether I’m sitting down for a proper breakfast or lunch, or just stopping by to spoil myself with a few treats from their beautifully curated deli, it is an absolute staple for the best coffee and bolle med ost in town.

Favourite store to shop at

La Bagatelle. Malene has this incredible, rare talent for design. The pieces she creates instantly feel intimate, carrying a sense of nostalgia that makes them feel like a cherished garment that has already been in your closet forever.

Where to take a tourist to see a slice of the real Copenhagen

To experience the true cultural soul of the city, I always recommend catching a film at Grand Teatret, which is a beloved historic institution. Afterwards, visit The David Collection. It is an absolute gem of a museum that flies just under the radar for most visitors, yet it houses one of the world's most important collections of Islamic art alongside an exquisite selection of works by Vilhelm Hammershøi.