5-minute Fashion Month Debrief: New York edition

By Alex Kessler

Photo: Vogue Runway

Grab a coffee and take five minutes to get your quick-fire, need-to-know updates on the New York leg of fashion month

Before the whirlwind of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs electrified the industry with a fabulous collection to mark the 40th anniversary of his eponymous label. With audacious designs boasting exaggerated proportions in delicious shades, Jacobs deftly avoided leaning too heavily on his own history, opting instead for a refreshing approach. As Nicole Phelps, Vogue Runway’s director, aptly summarises: “He’s much too irreverent, and that kind of self-seriousness just isn’t on brand.”


It was Peter Do’s sophomore collection for Helmut Lang that truly heralded the start of New York’s fashion calendar, exploring the interplay between protection and ornamentation. Collina Strada maintained its signature eccentricity while emphasising female empowerment amidst global turmoil. Meanwhile, Willy Chavarria, one of the city’s standout talents, confidently evolved his brand’s identity. Tommy Hilfiger, renowned for his extravagant showcases, drew in a constellation of celebrities at Grand Central Station, revitalising American sportswear classics. Plus, Hilfiger appointed Sofia Richie Grainge as a brand ambassador, her effortlessly chic presence on the front row, bump and all, drawing attention.

Helmut Lang autumn/winter '24. Photo: Vogue Runway

Proenza Schouler autumn/winter '24. Photo: Vogue Runway

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler presented a captivating collection featuring designs veering towards an even more minimalist aesthetic than their typical style. Following this, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta showcased a sensual array of patchwork knits and striking outerwear. Khaite, favoured by discerning A-listers with a penchant for understated luxury, unveiled an evocative selection of '80s and early '90s silhouettes crafted from luxurious fabrics.

Tory Burch autumn/winter '24. Photo: Vogue Runway

Vogue Runway. Photo: Vogue Runway

Ulla Johnson commenced the third day of the New York fashion calendar with her distinctive approach to elegant, waist-cinching silhouettes, incorporating a variety of textures and vibrant prints. Sandy Liang’s ultra-girly looks, though understated, garnered attention, while Area, under the direction of creative director Piotrek Panszczyk, presented a see-now-buy-now (spring/summer 2024) collection inspired by ’60s Pop Art and 1920s surrealist motifs. Tory Burch commemorated her 20-year anniversary with a collection that remained faithful to her sophisticated yet unconventional sensibilities. Ludovic de Saint Sernin debuted his eponymous Parisian brand in NYC, showcasing his sensual signature pieces as a tribute to photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.

On the penultimate day of NYFW, Gabriela Hearst, fresh from her departure from Chloé after a three-year tenure as creative director, showcased her talent for crafting sleek pieces infused with elements of magical realism and inspired by British surrealist painter Leonora Carrington. Michael Kors’s star-studded runway presentation paid homage to a black-and-white photograph of his grandparents on their wedding day. However, the standout moment of the day occurred at Luar, where Beyoncé and her sister Solange (whose son walked the show) graced the front row to witness Raul Lopez’s presentation of an eclectic mix of voluminous, vampy silhouettes in deep, rich hues.

Luar autumn/winter '24. Photo: Vogue Runway

Thom Browne autumn/winter '24. Photo: Vogue Runway

Thom Browne concluded the week with a gothic-inspired collection nodding to Edgar Allan Poe’s 1845 poem “The Raven”. The collection featured a plethora of his avant-garde silhouettes crafted from monochromatic fabrics. All in all, a compelling yet wearable showcase of sleekness worthy of one of the most glamorous cities in the world.